At S.M Bespoke we specialize in creating traditionally tailored and handmade bespoke suits that reflect the personal style of our clients. But what makes a bespoke suit different from a made-to-measure suit?
Initial Design Consultation
We start with an initial design consultation. Here we invite clients to bring any inspiration they might have for their bespoke garments in terms of style, patterns, colors, or fit. We prepare the appointment by pulling different fabric swatches that work for the types of bespoke garments we are creating. We guide and help clients choose from the over 50,000 different fabrics we carry from the best mills in Europe. Where our made-to-measure option has a smaller, yet extensive, selection of fabrics for clients to choose from, we offer our bespoke suits in all fabrics that we carry. From Loro Piana, Zegna, Cerruti, Dormeuil, Scabal, Holland & Sherry and many, many more, we are able to design your dream suit.
There are no limitations on the styles or designs of our bespoke suits. From the classic suit that is perfectly tailored to the more outlandish and fashionable creations, we can make it. Made-to-measure suits are limited to the classic styles such as a timeless suit, sharp tuxedo, sport coat, or other traditional cuts. But with bespoke, the sky is the limit. You can see examples of our bespoke garments on our Instagram or here.
Measurements
Once all the design aspects of your bespoke suit have been decided on we then move on to the measurements. A made-to-measure process creates a custom suit for the client by finding a standard size that fits them the best. The pattern for that standard size is then altered to fit the unique body measurements of the client to create a better fitting, custom suit. You can read more about our made-to-measure process here.
A bespoke fit is completely different as there is no standard size or pattern involved. Without the client’s measurements and body configurations there is no garment as the pattern is hand drawn on paper based on the desired fit. We take all necessary measurements and take posture pictures for reference. After the design consultation we start drawing a unique pattern for the bespoke garments. From dress shirts to sweaters to suits to overcoats, anything bespoke that we make is based entirely on the client rather than standard sizes. A truly bespoke garment will always be created this way and our suits are no expection.
Creating the Basted Garments
Another element of a true bespoke garment is the basted fitting. A basted fitting is a loosely put-together suit or garment that is held together only with white, cotton thread (basting thread). Basted garments are completely unfinished without buttons, pockets, or lining. Think of the basted fitting as the outer shell of your suit along with the structural foundation of padding and canvassing.
Canvassing and padding makes for the most well-fitting and durable garments and all our bespoke garments are hand padded and fully canvassed. Not only does this allow the jacket to sit better on the client’s body but it also means that normal wear won’t allow the jacket to pull apart. In comparison, most made-to-measure garments are fused, which means that rather than being hand sewn and held together with canvassing, the garments are glued together.
The Fitting Appointment
We have our clients come in for a fitting appointment where we try on the basted fitting garments. No garment is truly bespoke without a basted fitting. Because the fitting garment is only loosely constructed, any changes to the pattern and fit can still be made at this stage. Made-to-measure garments are limited in the changes that are possible such as length of pants or sleeves, waist circumferences, etc. At no point can changes to the chest, shoulders, etc. be made as the garment is glued together and can’t be easily taken apart. We will do as many basted fittings as necessary and allowed by the client’s timeline to ensure that the fit is perfect, something only a true bespoke make can achieve.
Our house made-to-measure process includes a basted fitting in a toile (placeholder) fabric. This is very uncommon for made-to-measure garments, and we are proud to offer a much more accurate fit with made-to-measure fit than other places can. However, bespoke with a basted fitting in the fabric of the client’s choice will always have the superior fit.
Creating the Final Suit
After a bespoke fitting, the basted garment is taken apart fully and recut based on the changes to the client’s pattern deemed necessary based on the initial fit. This process is also where the finishing touches and custom elements of the suits design are completed. Did you request extra pocket space, personalized monogramming, contrasting buttonholes or pick stitching? We execute all of these details once the fit of the garments has been ensured. One of our bespoke suits take 70 hours to make by hand and passes through the hands of a cutter, a trouser maker, a coat maker and finally a finisher that puts in lining, buttons and other design elements.
The Final Fitting Appointment
The final fitting appointment is always the most exciting. Here the client is able to see the finished results of our work and their vision come together. At the final fitting everything is finished, pressed, and tailored to perfection. At this stage any last alterations to the fit are completed within a few days such as lengthening, shortening, letting out or taking in. These minor tweaks to the pattern are the only changes ever offered for traditional made-to-measure (with our made-to-measure option as the exception), but these are simply fine-tuning elements of the bespoke process.
Having a bespoke suit made is a longer process but the fit, quality, and unlimited style options always make it worth the wait. If you want to learn more or begin the process of creating your own bespoke suit you can reach out to us here or book an appointment by clicking the button below.
