We have previously discussed the different elements that make up a bespoke garment on this blog: the style, the fit, and the cloth. However, with fall arriving, it is time to talk about the bespoke process of another tailoring favourite of ours: the overcoat.
Coats can be a massive investment even if you buy RTW. However, the great thing about coats is that if made well, they are meant to last. This means that your investment will last much, much longer. This is where getting a bespoke garment is a true advantage. The quality of bespoke will always be impeccable, and best of all, you will get to choose every part of your garment, which makes it less likely that you will get tired off it. It can be 100% your style.
But, what should you look for in a bespoke overcoat? Well, an obvious answer might be warmth. You wear an overcoat when it is too cold outside to just wear your suit jacket. However, it is never just as straight forward as warmth (as you would have seen in our blog post about shirt and suit fabrics). There are several variables to take into account such as fibre, weave and weight of fabric.
When you are looking for a garment to provide warmth, the weight of the fabric is the core variable to keep in mind. Even a wool or wool-cashmere blend fabric can start at 370g or 13oz, which is probably a bit lighter than what most people are looking for in an overcoat. Ideally, you’d want a fabric weight over 500g or 18oz, with 600-700g or 20-25oz being the best weight for a garment actually providing warmth. If you are looking for something even cozier than this, Su Misura Bespoke, Edmonton offers a unique fabric from Ariston that is wool with a down inlay. This does limit the tailored look slightly, but it is still much more structured and tailored than a plain down coat. Contact us to learn more about different fabrics for coats.
Next consideration would be fibre. Cashmere will always be the warmest option for its weight, given that cashmere has hollow fibres. However, as anyone who has ever owned a cashmere piece will tell you, the longevity will be lower, as cashmere does tend to be a little more delicate and will show wear more easily than its wool counterparts. However, if you are willing to take good care of your coat, even when you are not using it, then cashmere is a lovely option for an overcoat that is tailored, warm, and soft.
Another option for a coat that is slightly more durable but still warm and soft would be wool. While a little less soft than cashmere, wool fibres offers a lot of warmness still and much more durability and therefore longevity of your garment. If the softness is important to you, then there is always the option of getting a wool-cashmere blend. These blends are more durable than cashmere, but softer than plain wool. Usually you would have to go for at least 20% cashmere or above in the composition.
When you live somewhere like Edmonton or anywhere else with an impressive annual snowfall, you might also be wondering about water resistance. However, water resistant fabrics will almost always sacrifice other things such as softness, drape or look. If you are truly in need of something very water resistant, you might want to include something more practical into your wardrobe as well as a more classic and fashionable piece like a tailored wool garment.
Finally, the last thing worth considering along with weight and fibre is color and pattern. As is true for all investment pieces, versatility is important. This is particularly relevant for coats though, as they need to pair well with more items in your wardrobe than anything else you own. You need to think about what color and/or pattern will work with majority of the things you wear. Charcoal is always a good bet for a coat, dark enough to be practical, light enough to be different. Navy is also a great choice as it will be a little less formal than charcoal. For patterns, houndstooth is a fashionable choice, a herringbone will be a little more timeless.
To learn more, go to our website: www.sumisurabespoke.com or book an appointment with us for your own design consultation here.
