We recently covered the process of choosing your cloth when having a bespoke suit made. However, we at Su Misura Bespoke, make a lot of custom shirts as well and get an almost equal amount of questions about choosing a cloth fabric for your custom dress shirt.
Most clients have an idea of the type of color they like for their dress shirts. Are you a white and light blue fan or do you prefer colors and patterns? These are good starting points for choosing your shirt fabric, but there are many more aspects to keep in mind. Going over shirt cloth samples can be much more confusing than going over suit cloth samples as all the samples can look very similar. Ever wondered about the merit of blue poplin over blue linen? Probably not, but that’s why we’re here to help you!
The most classic type of dress shirt for men will be in a blue hue or white, sometimes a pink or a classic pattern can sneak its way in as well. Rarely is fabric weave at the forefront of anyone’s mind, as long as the cloth feels nice and is breathable. But even if this is what you’re looking for then it can be valuable to take your time and familiarize yourself with some of the different options even for the most classic of dress shirts. Here we’ll walk you through the steps of getting a bespoke dress shirt made to fit every aspect of your style.
Consider the weave pattern and formality
As we just went over, this tends to be the last thing we think of when imagining our bespoke dress shirt, but actually this should be your first thought. You need to have an idea of how formal you would like your shirt to be for us to help you find the perfect cloth, as most swatch books will be divided up this way.
Are you looking for something with a very fine weave to have a little more shine and fine texture such as poplin, oxford and twill? Or are you looking for something with a bit more of a casual feel such as denims, flannels, or colors and patterns? Go over galleries and images like this one, to get an idea of your custom dress shirt should look.
We recommend touching all different types of cloth to really get a sense of the difference between them in terms of feel as well as look. While this might seem time consuming you’ll understand when you notice the difference between crisp poplin and soft flannel.
Consider the fineness of the cloth
The fineness of the cloth indicates the thread count and the ply of the yard. If a fabric has ‘120/2’ as a marker then this means that it has a 120-count tread and 2-ply yarn. Most quality shirt like the ones you’ll find at Su Misura Bespoke will be 2-ply. The thread count is what really makes the biggest difference. An 80 thread count will feel rough but might be more durable and sturdy than a 140 thread count that is more silky and soft- and sometimes more fragile. Also, an important difference that the thread count makes is the drape and the level of wrinkling through out the day. The lower the thread count, the better the drape and the fewer wrinkles you’ll have to deal with.
Pick your color
Picking the color is where you probably started when thinking about getting a custom made shirt. Do you need a staple piece for your wardrobe or are you looking to make more of a statement? White is easy, blues are even easier, but patterns is where it gets a little crazy.
A tip is to go through your closet and select your favourite shirts. Take a hard look at the color; maybe even wear it to your appointment. Your tailor should be able to help you find colors in the same shades and tones that will work well for you and make you want to wear them day in and day out. Also, think about what the colors of your suits are and what the shirt color needs to be to match.
A rule of thumb is to always go with the lighter shade between the colors you’re considering. The stronger the color the more casual the feel and a nice light blue or pink will always work with most suits. However, if you are on the market for patterns, then you need to decide on your preference for type of pattern (check, stripe, etc.), boldness of pattern, and color scheme of pattern. You’ll also have to think about any patterns in the suits you own and if the pattern and colors of your dress shirt will clash with some or more of the suits you’re planning to wear it with.
Consider what you like and how it will compliment things you already own. This should make the process of having your bespoke dress shirt made a lot easier. Click here to book a design consultation with us at Su Misura Bespoke and get expert guidance throughout the design process. Also, feel free to reach out with any comments or questions here.
