When choosing a blazer, nothing is as classic as a double-breasted style. This timeless jacket can be dressed up or down, paired with jeans, trousers or a skirt. Pop it over a dress for a chic silhouette.
What makes a double-breasted jacket work? According to SM Bespoke expert tailor Charlotte Jensen, fit is everything.
“A double-breasted jacket hugs a woman’s curves, tapering the waist while allowing sufficient room in the bust area,” says Charlotte. “It can be a woman’s best friend, but has to be impeccably tailored.”
Double-breasted jackets are worn closed. As such, it’s important to check the fit across the shoulders, bust, waist and hips. Lapels should lie flat, lines should hug curves, and the hem should be straight across the bottom when the jacket is closed.
“Double-breasted means that one side overlaps the other,” advises Charlotte. “If worn open, the jacket will appear boxy, the fabric will drape lower in the front than it will in the back due to weight of the material, internal canvassing and the fact that there is a lot more fabric needed to create the overlap.”
When creating a double-breasted jacket for women, Charlotte keeps fabric in mind.
“All fabrics work for a double-breasted jacket, but for women I find it is necessary to keep bulk in mind. Heavier fabrics, like flannel, tweed or boucle, tend to add more bulk to the waist and chest where the jacket overlaps, which can interfere with a streamlined and tapered fit. People are often better off going with a sleek wool, virgin wool, merino, silk, linen or other lightweight options. “
Well-constructed, expertly fit jackets can last for many years. If a double-breasted jacket is on your radar, consider cost-per-wear before purchasing. A bespoke jacket, custom tailored just for you, is $1,100 and if you wear it twice a month for five years (120 times), it’s just $9 per wear (about the cost of a couple of lattes per wear). A made-to-measure jacket is $700, or about $6 per wear.
A classic double-breasted jacket is well worth the investment.
